How to Laser Engrave Acrylic: Everything You Need To Know

Laser engraving acrylic is a popular technique for creating high-quality, precise designs on a durable and versatile material. Whether you’re crafting custom signage, intricate artwork, or personalized gifts, acrylic offers a smooth, polished surface that responds well to laser technology.

However, achieving professional results requires understanding the right settings, materials, and techniques.

---

---

In this guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know about how to laser engrave acrylic, from selecting the best type to optimizing laser parameters for a flawless finish.

Types of Acrylic for Laser Engraving

Acrylic broadly refers to a heat-sensitive plastic manufactured by a wide range of brands. The other names used in the industry include Lucite and Plexiglass. There are different types of acrylic utilized for different applications.

When it comes to laser engraving applications, cast and extruded are the primary types of acrylic used. Before you begin experimenting on acrylic with your laser, it is vital to know which material fits your scope of needs.

Cast Acrylic

Cast acrylic is made by pouring liquid acrylic in the space between a set of tempered glass sheets. A rubber gasket of a specific thickness is inserted between the sheets to define the desired thickness. Meanwhile, the monomer solidifies and hardens into an acrylic polymer sheet.

When engraved, cast acrylic transitions to a frosty material that is sought after in many customization applications. It can be molded into different shapes and sizes and is often used to make awards, thanks to its good optical quality.

Extruded Acrylic

Just like cast acrylic, extruded acrylic is also commonly used in laser engraving projects. To manufacture extruded acrylic, pellets of resin are fed to an extruder that in turn melts them. This molten mass of plastic is then passed through a die on high pressure to make a molten sheet after which this sheet is moved across rollers to create the thickness and surface finish.

Making extruded acrylic is easier than making cast acrylic and this makes extruded acrylic cheaper. Additionally, extruded acrylic creates clean and smooth engravings with flame-polished edges.

So instead of a frosted look which is the case with cast acrylic, you will have a clear laser engraved product. It is also much softer and has a tendency to gum up during the rotary engraving process. Extruded acrylic is great for blanks, profile cutting letters, and shapes that require a polished, smooth edge.

Other factors to consider when choosing the acrylic to use

When looking for the best acrylic to use for your laser engraving project, you have a choice between extruded and cast acrylic. But there are other factors worth considering – e.g. the color of the acrylic.

Most people often settle for clear acrylic because it is popular and easy to work with. However, if you are looking for something out of the ordinary, try a tinted color such as red, gold, jade, or sapphire, or even a glow-in-the-dark acrylic,

Opaque colors are also quite amazing. Some of the opaque options that are readily available on the market include black, white blue, red, and brown.

You could also choose a mirrored accent which is simply the normal acrylic which is laminated with material on top, bottom, or the side for a stunning colorful reflection and a unique distinction.

If you are open to experimentation, you can also pair your acrylic with other materials like wood bases or accents or metal. The end product will definitely look gorgeous.

The Acrylic Materials We Recommend

Choosing the Right Engraver to Laser Engrave Acrylic

When laser engraving acrylic, selecting the right laser type is crucial for achieving the best results. The three most common laser types for engraving acrylic are CO₂ lasers, diode lasers, and UV lasers. Each has its own advantages and limitations, and choosing the right one depends on the type of acrylic and the desired engraving quality.

CO₂ Laser Engravers (Best for Acrylic Cutting & Engraving)

• Power Output: Typically ranges from 40W to 100W+
• Best for: Both engraving and cutting acrylic, especially cast acrylic
• Advantages: CO₂ lasers operate at a 10.6-micron wavelength, which is highly effective at engraving and cutting acrylic with smooth edges.
• Methods for Best Results:
  • Optimize Power and Speed: Higher wattage lasers (e.g., 60W+) work best for engraving deep and cutting through thicker acrylic, while lower power lasers (e.g., 40W) are better suited for light engraving.
  • Use Masking Tape or Paper: This helps prevent burn marks and residue buildup.

Diode Laser Engravers (Not Ideal for Clear, Blue, White, and Mirrored Acrylic but Can Be Enhanced)

• Power Output: Typically 5W to 40W
• Best for: Engraving colored acrylic, not effective for clear acrylic without additional treatment
• Advantages: More affordable than CO₂ lasers, but they operate at a 450nm wavelength, which passes through clear acrylic without engraving it.
• Methods for Best Results:
  • Paint or Coat the Surface: Painting the surface black before engraving and removing the paint afterward can work.
  • Slow Speed & High Power: Maximizing power output while reducing speed helps create more defined engravings.

UV Laser Engravers (Best for High-Detail, Surface Marking)

• Power Output: Typically 1W to 5W
• Best for: High-detail surface marking on acrylic, but not suitable for deep engraving or cutting
• Advantages: UV lasers operate at a 355nm wavelength, allowing them to engrave acrylic without creating heat stress or burn marks. They provide ultra-fine detail for intricate designs.
• Methods for Best Results:
  • Use Low Power Settings: Since UV lasers don’t generate much heat, they should be used at lower power settings to avoid over-marking.
  • Avoid Thick Acrylic: UV lasers work best on thin sheets of acrylic rather than thick pieces, which require CO₂ lasers for cutting.

For best results engraving acrylic, a CO₂ laser is the top choice due to its power and precision. Diode lasers can engrave acrylic with the right preparation, such as using colored acrylic sheets for example yellow or red or painted surfaces.

UV lasers excel in fine detail work but aren’t ideal for deep engraving or cutting. By choosing the right laser and optimizing the engraving process, you can achieve professional-quality results on acrylic.

How To Laser Engrave Acrylic with a CO₂ Laser Engraver?

First, make sure your acrylic material is devoid of scratches and cracks. Next, focus the laser beam on the acrylic, set the power to 25% – 50% and the speed at 350mm/min, and start the engraving process.

Once the process is done, let the material cool down then remove the melted acrylic residue using soap and water. 

Preparing Acrylic for Engraving

• Clean the Surface – Remove dust and fingerprints to prevent imperfections in the engraving.
• Remove Protective Film – Some acrylic sheets come with a protective film that should be removed before engraving.
• Secure the Material – Use clamps or a honeycomb bed to keep the acrylic in place and avoid shifting during the engraving process.

Best Practices for Laser Engraving Acrylic

• Use Masking Tape: Applying a thin layer of masking tape can reduce burn marks and protect the surface.
• Engrave in Reverse for Clear Acrylic: If engraving on clear acrylic, reverse the design and engrave on the back side for a polished look.
• Use Proper Ventilation: Acrylic emits fumes when laser-cut, so ensure adequate ventilation or use an exhaust system.

Top 5 Laser Engraver Exhaust Fan Options: Best Quality!

Post-Engraving Finishing Techniques

• Clean with Soapy Water: Gently wash the engraved area to remove dust.
• Flame Polishing: Use a flame polisher to smooth out edges after cutting.
• Buffing and Polishing: Use a polishing compound for a refined finish.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Using the Wrong Acrylic Type – Always use cast acrylic for engraving; extruded acrylic does not yield the same quality.
• Engraving Too Deeply – Deep engravings can cause distortion or warping.
• Overpowering the Laser – Excessive power can lead to charring or uneven edges.

What you need to know on how to laser engrave acrylic

Acrylic’s uniqueness lies in the fact that it can absorb certain light wavelengths. When exposed to laser light, it soaks up all its energy like a sponge. This means that acrylic can produce amazing engravings even on low-watt lasers.

You can also engrave acrylic both on its front as well as its back. Either way, you will end up with a pleasant end product.

However, engraving at the back is a great way to achieve a “look-through” effect on the front of the product. This gives the product a dimensional quality that takes its look to the next level.

When engraving on the back of acrylic, you have to remember that your text and graphics should be reversed to make sure they read normally from the front.

Most graphic design software like Coreldraw and Photoshop have a mirror effect that you can use to reverse the image and text before you commence the laser engraving.

When engraving on acrylic, it is advisable to measure twice and cut once. This is actually a timeless technique that’s used to avoid expensive mistakes when engraving on expensive items.

To find out if your engraving skills are up to par, apply a tinted polyester mask on your acrylic sheet and engrave it on low power (about 5%) and 100% speed. Cut the mask only in this trial and error phase. Proceed to the actual acrylic only when you are satisfied that your design will come out as desired.

What are the correct settings to laser engrave acrylic with a CO₂ Laser?

The outcome of your acrylic engravings will largely depend on the settings of your laser. These are the recommended settings to watch out for.

Focus

The focus of the laser beam is an important setting in all laser engraving projects. Theoretically, if you engrave huge fill areas on your material, you will end up with horizontal raster lines that make your engraving coarse and unpleasant.

The raster lines are responsible for creating an ugly horizontal pattern that shows on your product. To reduce these lines, enlarge the spot size of the laser. You are looking for a focus lens that forms a cone-shaped beam. This is what enlarges with distance as it moves away from the focal point. Here are a few best practices on focus;

• Avoid defocusing if your acrylic sheet is less than 6mm
• Only defocus if the cut edge has some wavy lines at the bottom or if it’s not straight.
• Defocusing ensures better beam usage

Power and speed

Laser engraving acrylic works best with low power and high speeds. If you are working on painted acrylic or one that is screen-printed on the side, turn the power up by 10% but maintain the speed you would use on unpainted acrylic. This gives the laser more energy to cut through the paint.

Sometimes, you may experience a few problems when engraving acrylic such as melting or cracking. If you do, it is a clear indication that you are using too much heat. The solution to this problem is to reduce the power or increase the speed of the laser. Refer to your laser system to identify the correct speed and power settings for the material you are working on.

Below you will find the suggested CO₂ Laser speed and power settings for engraving Acrylics. Settings may vary based on the laser engraver and acrylic type, but here are general recommendations:

Laser Power	Engraving Depth	Speed (mm/s)	Power (%)	DPI (Resolution)	Air Assist
40W	Light Engraving	300-400	20-30	300-500	Optional
50W	Medium Engraving	300-400	30-40	400-600	Optional
60W	Deep Engraving	200-300	40-60	500-600	Optional
80W+	Deep Engraving	150-250	50-70	600+	Optional

Frequency

The material in question will determine the ideal frequency setting of your laser. However, you might want to begin on a high frequency of 10,000 – 20,000 Hz if using cast acrylic and a lower frequency of 2,000 – 5,000 Hz if it extruded acrylic.

A lower frequency results in a low pulse which in turn increases the pulsed energy or reduces the constant energy in the acrylic. This phenomenon causes less boiling, less flaming, and slower cutting speed.

Exhaust

Having some form of suction beneath your acrylic is optional but highly recommended. It can help you get rid of gases that may otherwise get trapped in the cut kerf. This helps to avoid flaming, controls frosting of the acrylic, and prevents the gases from igniting. Compressed air of 15PSI (maximum) in a large cone diameter should do the trick.

---

---

How To Laser Engrave Acrylic with a Diode Laser Engraver

Laser engraving clear acrylic with a diode laser can be challenging because diode lasers operate at a 450nm wavelength, which passes through transparent materials without marking them. However, by using Prang Tempera Black Paint, you can create a temporary surface that absorbs the laser’s energy, allowing for crisp, high-contrast engravings.

Why Use Prang Tempera Black Paint?

• Light-absorbing properties: Creates a dark, matte surface that the laser can engrave.
• Easy to wash off: Unlike permanent coatings, tempera paint washes away cleanly after engraving.
• Non-toxic & safe: Ideal for those looking for an eco-friendly engraving method.

Step-by-Step Guide to Engraving Clear Acrylic with a Diode Laser

1. Gather Your Materials

• Diode laser engraver (5W–40W power recommended)
• Clear acrylic sheet (Cast acrylic preferred for best engraving results)
• Prang Tempera Black Paint (Prang DIXX10809, 8 oz)
• Airbrush or Foam Brush Available On Amazon For Best Results
• Masking tape (optional, for securing acrylic)
• Soft cloth & warm water (for cleaning after engraving)

2. Prepare the Acrylic Surface

1. Clean the acrylic – Wipe off any dust, dirt, or fingerprints to ensure the paint adheres smoothly.
2. Apply the Prang Tempera Black Paint –
   • Use an airbrush or foam brush to apply a thin, even coat across the engraving area.
   • Allow the paint to dry completely (15–30 minutes depending on thickness).

3. Set Up the Diode Laser Engraver

1. Adjust power settings – Start with 80-100% power and low speed for deep engravings.
2. Focus the laser – Use manual focusing for best results; the laser should be pinpoint sharp.
3. Secure the acrylic – Use masking tape or clamps to hold the acrylic sheet in place.

4. Engraving Process

1. Run a test engraving on a scrap piece to fine-tune settings.
2. Engrave the design – The laser will burn through the black paint, leaving a visible engraving on the acrylic surface.
3. Check the engraving – If it’s too light, run a second pass at the same speed and power.

5. Clean Off the Paint

1. Use a damp soft cloth with warm water to gently wipe off the black paint.
2. Avoid scratching the acrylic by using circular motions and mild pressure.

Final Results

Once the paint is removed, the engraved design will appear frosted against the clear acrylic. If done correctly, the edges will be crisp and smooth, similar to a CO₂ laser engraving.

Using Prang Tempera Black Paint allows diode laser users to engrave clear acrylic effectively, opening up new possibilities for signage, decorations, and personalized gifts.

This affordable and easy-to-clean method makes it a great option.

Troubleshooting Guide

If you encounter any issues, here’s how to fix them:

• Uneven Paint Drying: Apply a thinner coat and use a heat gun to ensure even drying.
• Faint Engraving: Increase the laser power slightly or run a second pass for a deeper mark.
• Residue After Cleaning: Remove any leftover paint with a paper towel and a small amount of rubbing alcohol.

Best Acrylic Colors for Laser Engraving with a Diode Laser

Since diode lasers (450nm blue wavelength) struggle with clear and transparent acrylic, the best results come from colored opaque acrylic that absorbs the laser energy effectively.

Best Acrylic Colors for Engraving (High Contrast)

• Red – Produces a white or light-colored engraving with good visibility.
• Yellow – Engraves to a light white or faded shade with decent contrast.
• Orange – Similar to red and yellow, providing good engraving contrast.

Difficult Colors to Engrave (Poor Contrast)

• Blue – Reflects the laser, leading to weak or no engraving.
• White – Does not absorb the diode laser well, requiring additional techniques like laser paint removal.
• Black – Engraves black-on-black, making the design nearly invisible.
• Clear/Transparent/Mirrored – The laser passes through without marking it unless coated with paint or masking.

Pro Tip:

For best results on blue, clear, black, or white acrylic, use the “laser painting” method (coating with black paint and engraving it off).

Recommended Settings To Laser Engrave Acrylic With A Diode Laser

Laser Power	Speed (mm/min)	Power (%)	DPI (Resolution)	Passes	Air Assist
5W	900-1200	80-100	300-400	1-2	Off
10W	1200-1800	70-90	400-500	1-2	Off
20W	1800-2500	60-80	500-600	1	Off

🔹 Slower speed = deeper engraving.
🔹 Higher DPI = smoother frost effect.

Laser Cutting Acrylic

Apart from engraving, a laser machine can be utilized to cut through acrylic on an X-Y motion path. This operation is called vector cutting and is a relatively straightforward process. First, you need to remove the applied paper mask that comes with the acrylic.

This film is used to protect the polished surfaces of the acrylic during fabrication and handling. Unfortunately, the paper contains paraffin that increases the chance of flare-ups and charring during cutting. Replace this with a paper mask sold by engraving suppliers. This mask helps protect the material and ensures a clean cut.

Next, you want to raise your acrylic sheet up to a height that ensures it doesn’t touch the cutting table. This way, the backside reflection and the appearance of grid marks on the material after engraving will be greatly reduced.

A metal table of a thickness of 10mm guarantees that each of your processed pieces remains in position when you are done cutting. The metal table doesn’t absorb the laser energy but rather, reflects it off. Unfortunately, this heat is directed to the bottom side of the material and can cause distortion and pitting.

It is, therefore, a good idea to create an air space between the worktable and the acrylic to dissipate this heat and consequently improve the cut. A shim or a vector cutting table can help you achieve this.

If you settle for the former, ensure you place a back-up plate under your material. This not only ensures a clean cut but reduces the mess on your worktable. Vector cutting tables are made for this purpose as well and can come in handy if you intend to cut plenty of material with your laser.

To get the best results, set your engraver on high power and low speed. The slow cutting process ensures that the laser beam appropriately melts the edges of the material and ultimately produces a polished look.

The thickness of your material and the wattage of the laser will determine the number of passes you need to make to achieve a clean cut. Essentially, a high wattage cuts deeper and quicker than a low wattage. If you make a number of passes, be sure to keep the right focus of the laser.

For example, if you focus the laser on the material the first time you cut it, it may be out of focus during the second pass. A beam that is out of focus causes a poor cut in the end. Thankfully, most laser machines in the market now have an auto-focus feature that eliminates this problem entirely.

For cutting acrylic with a CO2 laser, recommended settings depend on the laser’s power and acrylic thickness. Here are general guidelines:

Settings for Cutting Acrylic with a CO₂ Laser

Laser Power	Acrylic Thickness	Speed (mm/s)	Power (%)	Passes	Air Assist
40W	3mm (1/8″)	10-15	100	1-2	Yes
50W	6mm (1/4″)	5-10	100	1-2	Yes
60W	9mm (3/8″)	3-6	100	1-2	Yes
80W+	12mm (1/2″)	2-5	100	1	Yes

Tips for Best Results:

• Use Air Assist to prevent burning and improve cut quality.
• Set Proper Focus for clean cuts—use a 1.5″ or 2″ lens for thinner acrylic, and a 2.5″ lens for thicker cuts.
• Slow Down for Thick Acrylic to allow the laser to cut fully without melting edges excessively.
• Mask the Surface with transfer tape to reduce burn marks and residue.
• Use a Honeycomb or Knife Bed to allow proper airflow and prevent reflections from damaging the back of the acrylic.

Best Honeycomb Laser Engraver Bed: Top Quality!

Recommended Settings for Cutting Acrylic with a Diode Laser

Cutting acrylic with a diode laser (450nm blue laser) is challenging because most acrylic types do not absorb the blue wavelength efficiently. However, certain approaches can help improve results.

Best Practices for Cutting Acrylic with a Diode Laser:

1. Use Opaque Black Acrylic – Black acrylic absorbs the blue laser better than other colors. Transparent and light-colored acrylic won’t cut efficiently.
2. Use Multiple Passes – Since diode lasers are weaker than CO₂ lasers, you may need 4–20 passes to cut through thick materials.
3. Slow Speed & High Power – Slower speeds and full power ensure deeper cuts per pass.
4. Use Air Assist – Helps clear melted acrylic debris and prevents excessive charring.
5. Elevate the Acrylic – Raising the acrylic sheet reduces reflections and improves cutting performance.

Recommended Cutting Settings for Black Acrylic:

(For 10W diode lasers, cutting 5mm thick acrylic)

Laser Power	Speed (mm/min)	Passes	Air Assist	Focus
85%	100–300 mm/min	4–8	Yes (10–30 PSI)	Slightly below surface

Not Recommended for Cutting:

• Clear, white, mirrored, or blue acrylic – These colors reflect most of the blue laser light, making cutting nearly impossible.

Alternative Cutting Options:

For cutting clear or light-colored acrylic, a CO₂ laser (40W+) is the best choice. If using a diode laser, CNC milling or scoring with a knife may work better.

Frequently Asked Questions

Final Thoughts

Whether it is cast or extruded acrylic, you can create a plethora of customized products with your laser engraver. The trick is knowing how to do the actual engraving and cutting of the acrylic to achieve the best results.

As usual, it is a good idea to have one material for testing before starting to laser engrave on the actual material. The last thing you want is to make so many mistakes that you end up wasting all your acrylic sheets.